Wednesday, 18 November 2015
Wednesday, 11 November 2015
Product Review : Chevron Delo Silver
Chevron Delo invokes a certain excitement in me. From its packaging, availability smell and texture. Cost me $3.50usd a litre in malaysia.
This is a great oil at a great price. Only gripe is at 1000km the oil is pretty much sheared. So much for your 10000km oil change reccomendation yamaha!
Product Review :Silkolene 15w50 comp 4
Silkolene mineral oil at usd $3.50 had previously shocked me with its smooth transmission. This had encouraged me to drop the dollar on their semi synthetic version. This is made in singapore. At $8usd a litre it wasnt so bad. On the local advertisement it has ester in it.
Weirdly it needed about 200km before it started feeling ridiculously smooth. At 700km when I had to top up the oil, it was amber in colour. Something I have never seen before.
Very hot city rides didnt affect shifting much.
This shifts better than the maxima extra 15w50!
First oil to feel alright event at 2000km
Product Review : Autoglym Super Resin Polish
I managed to chanced upon a product that does wonders in finishing detail.
Prior to this, i had used novus and ultimate compound.
Will be getting a ultra deep gloss shine to compliment the SRP.
The SRP is very easy to use. However, it should only be used on a paintwork which is in generally good condition but lacks that perfect finish.
Monday, 26 October 2015
Windshied modification
A windshield is a necessity.
Especially when travelling above 80kph
It also allows me to mount my license plate on the shield.. clearing out space where it could affect the cooling of the radiator.
It has been a love and hate feeling to be visible and not look atrocious at the same time.
I am experimenting with the "chameleon sticker" it is actually red but with light, it has a "rainbow" effect that is extremely eye catching.
With trials, this works on public roads. People do notice me.
From a distance
On a brightly lit day
In the basement
Especially when travelling above 80kph
It also allows me to mount my license plate on the shield.. clearing out space where it could affect the cooling of the radiator.
It has been a love and hate feeling to be visible and not look atrocious at the same time.
I am experimenting with the "chameleon sticker" it is actually red but with light, it has a "rainbow" effect that is extremely eye catching.
With trials, this works on public roads. People do notice me.
From a distance
On a brightly lit day
In the basement
Rectifier Replacement
Lately, I had three bulbs blow on me in a time span of two months.
On an extreme tour, i had my meters reset a couple of times at high rpms. At once, it switched off and on when I was on the fast lane. So uncool
Something must be amiss right?
Though there may be many diagnosis of the failing electricity, it can be time consuming and expensive to solve. There are usually four components to electric problems.Battery, stator, rectifier and wiring( to some there may be others like connectors and ground). Since bulbs are blowing(probabbly due to a spike of voltage) I pointed it to the rectifier. Rectifier and stator problems sometimes only happen occasionally. Although the rectifier looks like a solid state unit that will not fail.. well it does.
My own research shows that ybr125 rectifier looks, mounts and connects exactly like the ybr250.
Here are pics. And the bike has been working fine since.. I will update if the problems will come up again..
Left is new
On an extreme tour, i had my meters reset a couple of times at high rpms. At once, it switched off and on when I was on the fast lane. So uncool
Something must be amiss right?
Though there may be many diagnosis of the failing electricity, it can be time consuming and expensive to solve. There are usually four components to electric problems.Battery, stator, rectifier and wiring( to some there may be others like connectors and ground). Since bulbs are blowing(probabbly due to a spike of voltage) I pointed it to the rectifier. Rectifier and stator problems sometimes only happen occasionally. Although the rectifier looks like a solid state unit that will not fail.. well it does.
My own research shows that ybr125 rectifier looks, mounts and connects exactly like the ybr250.
Here are pics. And the bike has been working fine since.. I will update if the problems will come up again..
Right is new
Bottom is new
Understanding yamaha part numbers
For a Part Number in the format XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The first three digits are the Model Code (every model in the Yamaha Product Line has a unique model number) all parts are given a Model Code of the first model they were used on.
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The middle five digits are the Basic Code number and indicates the actual part, i.e. 11631 = piston; 11311 = cylinder, etc.
A "W" substituted in the first position of this five-digit group (000-W0000-00-00) indicates a factory assembled kit which differs in content from the original assembly used in production (i.e. 2M0-W0046-00-00 – Rear Break Pad Ass’y).
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The next two digits are the Design Code and Design Change digits (so 01 means the part has had one design change). This part may or may notappear different, but it will be interchangeable with the original part.
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The last two digits are the Color or Finish Code.
For a Part Number in the format XXXXX-XXXXX-XX
All these parts are Hardware (fasteners), they all start with a '9' and end in '00'.
The second and third digits tells us what type of fastener:
0 - 'various'
1 - bolts, cotter pins
2 - screws, nuts
3 - oil seals, O-rings, bearings
4 - spark plugs
5 - bolts, nuts
6 - ISO bolts
7 - ISO screws and nuts
The fourth and fifth digits tell us what material/surface finish (e.g. chromed).
Digits six and seven give the diameter (inner or outer) e.g. 08 would be an M8 size.
Digits eight, nine and ten are the length (except for '901' bolts for some reason)
There are also standard fastener types...e.g.
90105-XXXXX are Washer based bolts
90116-XXXXX are Studs
90401-XXXXX are Union bolts
99999-XXXXX means that a part has been superceded by a kit.
Many thanks to;
http://www.benefisca...uk/help.php#q04
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The first three digits are the Model Code (every model in the Yamaha Product Line has a unique model number) all parts are given a Model Code of the first model they were used on.
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The middle five digits are the Basic Code number and indicates the actual part, i.e. 11631 = piston; 11311 = cylinder, etc.
A "W" substituted in the first position of this five-digit group (000-W0000-00-00) indicates a factory assembled kit which differs in content from the original assembly used in production (i.e. 2M0-W0046-00-00 – Rear Break Pad Ass’y).
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The next two digits are the Design Code and Design Change digits (so 01 means the part has had one design change). This part may or may notappear different, but it will be interchangeable with the original part.
XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The last two digits are the Color or Finish Code.
For a Part Number in the format XXXXX-XXXXX-XX
All these parts are Hardware (fasteners), they all start with a '9' and end in '00'.
The second and third digits tells us what type of fastener:
0 - 'various'
1 - bolts, cotter pins
2 - screws, nuts
3 - oil seals, O-rings, bearings
4 - spark plugs
5 - bolts, nuts
6 - ISO bolts
7 - ISO screws and nuts
The fourth and fifth digits tell us what material/surface finish (e.g. chromed).
Digits six and seven give the diameter (inner or outer) e.g. 08 would be an M8 size.
Digits eight, nine and ten are the length (except for '901' bolts for some reason)
There are also standard fastener types...e.g.
90105-XXXXX are Washer based bolts
90116-XXXXX are Studs
90401-XXXXX are Union bolts
99999-XXXXX means that a part has been superceded by a kit.
Many thanks to;
http://www.benefisca...uk/help.php#q04
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